Peshawar

27/05/2012 10:33

 

 
Content:
 
- Peshawar
- Rose Hotel
- Old Town
- Car Bazaar
- Smugglers' Bazaar
- Conclusion
 
Peshawar
 
After several phone calls and other inquiries, we were convinced that the current security situation in one of Asia's wildest cities allows a visit.
 
Peshawar is located at the foot of the famous Khyber Pass which leads into Afghanistan. Peshawar, one of the oldest cities in Asia is surrounded by the tribal areas of the Pashtun and Waziris. Afgahnistan is just a stone's throw away, and so today the Afghans are a big part of the local population. Huge refugee camps, triggered by the various wars in Afghanistan grow steadily into the suburbs of Peshawar.
 
Everything that can be sold is smuggled through the Khyber Pass. Every conceivable kind of weapons, drugs and valuables will be taken over the historic pass into Pshawar and is sold on the "smugglers bazaar" .
 
The influence of police and army in Peshawar is limited and in the surrounding tribal areas almost non-existent. The highly explosive mixture of limited police influence, flourishing smuggling and repeated outbreaks of tribal fetus bring this city always negative in the media.
 
At the moment, everything is quiet and we can safely venture a trip to this vibrant city.
 
Rose Hotel
 
Prior to departure Sam, Mark and I bought a local dress, the so called  Salwaar Kameeze. The two-piece garment consists of a huge pants which is tied with a cord around the waist. The upper part is an outsize shirt which reaches to the knees. The airy dress is very comfortable to wear despite the sweltering heat.
 
A minibus drives us for less then 3 US Dollar the 130 kilometers to Peshawar. A rickshaw brings us in Peshawar to the Rose Hotel. At the entrance of the hotel we are greeted by two guards with shotguns.
 
The first impressions are pretty intense. Actually, not very different from  other major cities like Lahore, Rawalpindi, but the reputation who sticks to this city does not let me feel totally comfortable.
 
 
Old Town
 
The hotel staff is very concerned about our security and put us into a tuk tuk and gives accurate instructions of our destination to the driver. We are on the way to "Prince", a well-known, very bizarre, city guide.
 
The traditional costume that Prince wears specially for the todays flower show is ultra funny. The friendly guide invites us for tea and introduces us to some safety rules. "Do not stay too long in one place", "Do not let yourself engage in longer conversations," "Be always on the move and let no body know where you go," etc.! His words do not contribute much to the general mood I have to admit.
 
As we stroll into the old town and finally can fill our bellies, the world looks quite different. As in all Pakistan, also in Peshawar, basically all people are very friendly. Everywhere we are invited to tea as usual, everywhere we are greeted with a smile and a "A salaam aleikum". With every step I feel happier and more comfortable and the unconscious "fear" vanishes completely.
 
We see historic homes with beautiful detailed wood carvings. We walk through the bazaars of the old town, drinking tea in traditional tea houses together with older Pashtuns and enjoy a banana milkshake on the noisy main road leading to our hotel.
 
 
Car Bazaar
 
Before it gets dark we have a look at one of the car bazaars which is just around the corner. Peshawar is famous for the endless availability of car parts. And my dear friends, something like this I have never seen in my life. Used engines, as far as the eye can see. Six, seven-story office building filled with car parts, from the indicator to bumper, from tires to transmissions, etc.! Here, thousands of cars are lined up neatly, disassembled and in different sectors. INCREDIBLE.
 
The three tourists on the Bazaar will soon be familiar faces, cause we get lost several times in the chaotic streets. Hardly a dealer does not offer us tea. Who needs tourist attractions if there is a car bazaar? :)
 
 
Smugglers Bazaar
 
Today we have agreed with "Prince" to visit the "smugglers bazaar". The area lies in the tribal areas and needs a special license for tourists from the tribal leaders who will guarantee a safe passage.
 
At tea Prince explains that since 2005 or 2008, I can not remember, the open sale of drugs and weapons which led up to the tanks, was abolished by the authorities. Today, the whole trade is unwound "gentlemanly". Over tea and biscuits with the tribal leaders, behind closed doors, you place an order and receive a sample of the goods, such as hashish, opium, Kalashikovs, etc. If you  agree with the price, the goods will be delivered to your door step.
 
We are now not really interested to sit in a house and see some drugs or weapons. We were interested to see a bazaar where this goods are still sold openly. Then we'll rather go again to the car bazaar. :)
 
 
Conclusion
 
An eventful weekend in Peshawar passes. After a short acclimatization time, I felt very safe and comfortable. The historic city has much to offer, but it is best to simply immersed in the hustle bustle of the bazaars and the Pakistani-Afghan life.
 
A worthwhile excursion unless the security situation is not too bad.
 

Link to the pictures: click here